Go, we go to Africa to walk.
Go, we go to Africa to walk.
Having got to Tunis, with surprise has found out: since the childhood the inspired
To us appeal-caution Korneja Ivanovicha Chukovsky "do not go, children,
To Africa to walk ", it appears, no any force has.
ANYWAY past year about hundred thousand Russians have visited
In this small African country. In the present expect more. And five
Years of back visitors from Russia considered, figuratively speaking, on fingers.
As to the true patriot of the country, me it was, of course, flatter
At an input in luxurious hotel to see the Russian flag flying near to
Flags of Frenchmen, Germans, "Danes and any other Swedes", moreover and
Header to read: "We are glad to welcome you, Russian friends, from firm
"Inna Tur". It is pleasant, when the porter who are giving out a room key, the waiter in
Restaurant, the door-keeper and simply street dealer or invited in a bench almost
Without accent spoke "good afternoon", "good evening".
It is and more joyful, that my country has given the chance to each Russian
Without any coordination with district committees, without characteristics mestkomov and other
Still ten years ago obligatory and humiliating for each normal
The person of rubbish suddenly it to take and appear in any corner of a planet...
But as to the person whom have convinced of advantages of market economy,
To me it is distressing because, that "process has gone" to one party... Why I
Arabs I do not meet at us in Suzdal, Kizhi yes in the same Moscow?. After all it,
Excuse, not an idle question. It is an economy question, and in a certain measure
Our well-being. Let's spend an elementary economic educational program.
Hundred thousand Russian tourists leave in this small country (the price
The tourist permit - eight days, seven nights - from 500 to 1000 dollars)
On the average these 80 million most "green" for a year. Plus is as much again
Spend on drink. Not in our, Russian, understanding, certainly. The prices for the strong
Drinks here other-wordly, not upeshsja. On water spend on drink, juice, beer.
Two-three dinars (the dinar is approximately equal to dollar) for a small bottle 0,33. A table though
And Swedish, but not whole put behind it, and it would be desirable to drink everywhere, especially
When it is hot...
Excursions - special article of the expense. The prices for them are established
The local ministry of tourism and neither from sending, nor from accepting firms
Do not depend. And to look it would be desirable. Both ruins of Carthago, and ruins
The Roman amphitheatre, and on camels across Sahara to sweep (20 dinar with
Souls), and on folklore holidays to visit - is more expensive. On "piracy"
Brig to sweep - 20 more. More shortly to gain money for tourism here are able.
Also it brings to the country neither much nor a little - about the fifth part annual
The national income. When we will learn... After all both ruins, and villages
With masters-umeltsami, villages with Cossacks-Dzhigits to us not to occupy. And
Our nature for inhabitants of sandy barkhans - exotic though where. However,
Hotels our the most star-restar capital not a couple the local
To hotels, and in poor relatives do not suit. But this business, of course,
The reparable. In due course, certainly.
Our person under five stars.
In Tunis for Russians - all the best. The best buses with conditioners.
The best in the country driver Ali the Woman, the best guide, it the translator
Hattam. The best numbers in hotels and even the best camels for walks on
To Sahara. So hospitable owners anyway speak. It is assured, that that
They speak both to Germans, and Poles, both Spaniards, and Frenchmen. Not
It is assured, the truth, that Russians - the best visitors.
Therefore at least, that at ours the best appetite. "A buffet?
- Freebie, the sir! "shchuplenkaja, as the miner the little girl also chooses from the hungry
Vorkuta, from twenty snack in one plate if not everything, 10-12, it
It is exact. From the five second dishes not a full measure, but all five. (And as not
To try?) for a dessert - heels of cakes (they all different!). From an abundance
Fruit - an apple, grushku, apelsinchik, mandarinchik. Well and dates
Handful (I will not eat so though ponadkushu!). It to you not the Englishwoman
Any: egg, a slice to a curd cake yes to juice a glass. But it it, the Mrs., from
Thrift that at in London on Herbalife not to be spent. And to us
What? We not the greedy.
And more ours - the best porters of own things. Will come
To hotel the bus with Frenchmen. They left - and walk: children-porters
In red kurtochkah and tarbooshes their trunks under numbers will carry. And on tea
Will receive. Ours - "all the I carry with myself". Though and on the tenth floor. Not
Therefore, of course, that dinar is a pity. Have simply got used. To that, in particular,
That at us the door-keeper not to welcome. For "not pushchat" it.
Well this all lyrical digressions on a subject "they" and "we". They already
There, where we only aspire. And we also soul, and the rights there where were
70 years. In pioneer camp, a communistic brigade, in the tourist
To group with songs at a fire. With "Katjushej", "evenings Situated near Moscow",
"Kalinkoj". And in Tunis, to general delight, sang. On the folklore
Holiday. In a village, on reception of tourists of the specialising.
Market circumstances.
Shops in Tunis, of course, are, both benches are, and booths, and in
The core - trade in streets. You everywhere invite, involve, literally
Put to you in hands of a different sort of a hand-made article local umeltsev... Buy, buy,
Buy. We buy, of course, singing the native: "do not bargain, do not stint". We take
Basically from what could not beat off. Clay camels. Dried
Scorpions in glass boxes. Sand of Sahara in pharmaceutical jars,
In what at us different ointments are on sale. It is possible a turban. It is possible such head
Attire in what we see on Yasser Arafat's TV. Much that is possible.
Only, getting 20 grammes of the same sand of Sahara for 3 dinars, not bad
To know, that can type it though two buckets absolutely free of charge, if not
In the desert where carry at excursion at a hotel fencing in the city of Duz,
Where sand is put by winds. Or, having bought somewhere in an oasis with thousand
Date palm trees at the countryman for two dinars dvuhsotgrammovuju
upakovochku these dried berries (where, apparently, is cheaper, fresh,
You reflect, recollecting buckets with apples almost for so on our autumn
Roads), you through pair hours will find out the kilogramme in a booth of hotel
Pack for the same price.
"The best guide" Hattam never in process of the auctions interferes:
"I - the Arab". But after will by all means remind: "I warned". It
Really time and again warned: that will buy - bargain. If
The seller asks 10 dinar - the goods mean there is one. But who from ours is able
To bargain?.
And for the Tunisian trade is a ritual. He asks twenty, you offer
One... It reduces: 18. You cover: 2. It catches at a head and cries out
On all area: this Russian (the German, the Pole, the Italian - it is unimportant) wants
Me to ruin... To you it is awkward, you, of course, try to leave - not here
Was.
You are surrounded by children and relatives of the dealer... It does not mean at all,
That they try to cheat. That is try, of course, but frankly.
The fool, the squanderer who is not knowing the true price of a thing, you become, if that
Want. Instead of want?. During the auctions for any knickknack my two
Dinar have from the very beginning disappeared in a pocket of the seller. But he asked still
Four. Trifles it was not more simple, and to change... Well in general, I think,
Be gone they propadom these coins... To Itself is more expensive... More shortly, retired.
Having understood, probably, my mood, the seller has found me in some minutes
Nearby already other bench and with shout "I the bankrupt", and a wide smile on the person
vsuchil to me a knickknack and delivery dinar...
During same approximately the auctions one fellow from our group
So has taken a great interest, that has left in a bench expensive videocamera. Also has, of course, forgotten,
Where has left... Also what you think? Already on the area it was caught up with the boy
Years of seven: "Russian! Russian!" - shouts and drags somewhere. Have tried
To wave away - that nearly in tears. "It is fine, have gone"... It has appeared, that the owner
Benches where have forgotten the chamber, has sent the son to search for the buyer-rasterjahu. The chamber
Has returned. And, as it is accepted at us, compensation did not take.
Such here market customs. Or customs if want. And can be,
This feeling of responsibility. "The best guide" after all spoke to us: "At
All of us all see. At all of us all know. You do not think, if see like
Poor people who sit in streets and do nothing. It not
The unemployed. It is job at them such ". And more:" If at us who offends
The tourist, to itself if not the coffin, at once can reserve the separate chamber
- Necessarily ".
Religion - conscience business.
Already having come back home, has read in one of newspapers: in Arab Emirates
Foreign women in miniskirts can arrest, send and even to plant.
Such are laws of this country. Tunis too the Arabian country. But unique
From two and a half tens as "the best driver" Ali the Woman spoke,
In which Islam - business of conscience and personal belief.
There are mosques, there are minarets from which at the necessary o'clock appeals are distributed
To a pray. But... Dealers trade, youth cheerfully "kuchkuetsja". Old men
Continue to sip seagulls on cafe verandahs. It was not possible to me to see
Women in a yashmak, and on tourists in miniskirts, shorts and with the bared
Navels of attention do not turn.
How concern to inovertsam? Easter has found us in small town Duz - at
Collar of Sahara. Here not capital public - beduiny, camels, desert.
It would seem... An is not present, by the supper end, proznav, that at us a holiday, have submitted
krashenye eggs. And the Easter cake has appeared in time, when half of group lapped in
Open pool. At a water edge have put little tables and... "razgovljajtes,
The orthodox! ".
To us their cares.
Certainly, for 8 days and 7 nights, though and having driven practically all country
From the north on the south, not much you learn about a life of simple Tunisians. I will share though
That it was possible to see from a bus window, yes to understand from short conversations
On a Russian-arabsko-German-zhestovom adverb. Not I so much languages know it.
They are Arabs... Even in oases, villages and even in cave small town
Cave men each inhabitant a little bit the polyglot. Means, study.
Education three-stage: school - lycц e - the higher school. Free.
But with one condition - be in time. The program difficult. Examinations strict. Not
You are in time - pay.
Public health services. Under the insurance. It give to state employees, military. Well
And if it was possible to be arranged in solid firm, which to you the insurance
Will pay. If is not present - pay the blood.
Pensions. By the same principle. For the overwhelming majority: "Mine
Pension are my children ". Family bonds are strong and reliable. Poor children and
Old men as in Moscow, in Tunis is not present.
Transport. Marvellously cheaply! 140 km (Moscow - Tver) are possible
By a taxi to drive, having thrown off on 6 dinar from a nose. It is perfectly well debugged
System city, long-distance and fixed-route taxis. A payment strictly on
To the counter. Or at the price of a route.
The average salary - 500 dinar (1 dollar - 1,13 dinars). In roubles
Consider.
A food. Not at the European restaurants, certainly. Bread - 0,17
Dinar, a potato - 0,3. Milk litre - 0,4. To live it is possible!
Also live. Even in Matmate - village of cave men. It, of course, a little
Has suffered from invasion of tourists, but it is necessary to admire with its modest
Charm and the dwellings smartly arranged in the earth. A such mud hut
Ukrainian or Kuban, only inside out. The dwelling it settles down
Round the dug crater in diameter of metres 10 on depth approximately 6 metres.
Living rooms (whitewashed inside as mud huts outside) are painted by patterns.
They are cut in soft sandstone round this original court yard. And in it
It is possible to get through the lateral tunnel. Similar designs were created
berberami it is a lot of centuries back. They protect from a heat in the summer and from a cold in the winter.
You will come inside - indeed, as in a hut. Cases and lockers, tables and beds. And
Even a gas cooker in a cave-kuhonke. The guide assured, that cave men
(Cave people) have come to these places during immemorial times from steppes
Present "nezalezhnoj" Ukraine.
Want - believe, want - check up. The Moscow company "INNA
ROUND "will help.
Vladimir potapenko,
Ours spets. A correspondent
//* an information Source: the Russian newspaper, 15.05.98
//* Reg. Nom. - 1080500078.06-------------------------------------------
|
