Light coast, where Russian - for the first time.
Light coast, where Russian - for the first time.
In Cadiz on a mountainous small street the grandmother and the grandson rise.
It vtolkovyvaet: "Andaluzija una (one). Cadiz - a province. Still Cordoba,
Granada, Malaga, Almeria, Haen, Huelva. And Seville! "
"Seville" sounds at it as a hymn. I do not know Spanish. But all
Clearly. A geography and patriotism lesson.
There is a hypothesis what exactly Seville was capital of mythical Atlantis.
To describe this city it is impossible: each square millimetre of territory
Here - a monument. A cathedral in volume more than four hundred thousand
Cubic metre allows to understand, that such the giant. However, becoming
Ant, in these walls all the same for some reason you become famous.
Quay of mysterious Guadalquivir for Russian, which with
The childhood in everyone on-pushkinski "runs, rustles"; a seven-century Gold tower
- Once zapornye gate of the river which partitioned off a chain; the huge
trehsotletnjaja arena for bullfight; the area of Spain dvuhsotmetrovogo
Diameter - the centre of the Iberoamerikansky exhibition of 1929, nowadays - centre
andaluzskogo the governments; openwork modernist bridges - a heritage
World's fair of 1992... The City, able to be and present itself
History monument.
I understand also Russian opera tenor, a romance about the coachman
Earning pesetas at crossroads of Seville: its streets - theatrical
Scene, to the actor on them - a holiday.
Seville, Granada, Cordoba are mastered for a long time by Russian. In Cadiz we
- The delegation first in history from Russia. Us have invited to meet with
Resort Kosta de la Lus (Light Coast) is 260 kilometres Atlantic
The coast before closed for the Russian tourist from-zi absence
Direct flights.
Americans, Germans, Frenchmen here - the people. Russian - exotic.
To us rejoice childly, as to elephants in streets. The president of the government
Provinces don Raphael Ramon Gererro personally meeting on job in
EuroParliament with Gorbachev and Zhirinovsky, it is proud accepts us now in
Royal palace - "the White house" Cadiz. A knightly armour near the throne
Hall where conducts receptions at visiting of Cadiz the well king,
Allow to be photographed under the handle with them.
Cadiz - the most ancient city in Europe. In him - the most cosmopolitan
And the liberal European city of HVIII of a century - the first Spanish is accepted
The constitution of 1812 in honour of what the monument-serial opening is built
Behind each turn new plots of a great bourgeois-democratic epopee
And topped many decades operating nest of a stork.
Under a roof of the highest viewing tower of a city, whence its owner,
The merchant-businessman, looked out in the sea the ships with the goods, modern
Business-vumen has arranged a surprising attraction - "chamber-obskuru", which
In the world now two: the telescope passes the image of a city panorama
Through system of mirrors in a tower, on a concave bowl of the television
"Plates". Cinema, the colour TV, painting - anything before this juicy,
The live, moving microscopic image.
FROM WALLS of seaport Sanlukar-de-Barrameda of a province Cadiz
Columbus sailed to America. An isabella II, the queen who has put in pawn for the sake of these
Expeditions of a jewelry of the Spanish crown, looked in a window of the palace
- Carved casket of mahogany. Dukes Orleansky, inheriting
The palace transformed by time in residence of the mayor, have made Sanlukar most
Fashionable resort of the last century, having disturbed novostroem rest of the wine
Cellars where on crossing of air streams the best Spanish grows ripe
Wine "Mansanilja".
Wine knows where to grow ripe. Sanlukar - a place of ecological euphoria:
You will not inhale, you will not see enough, not naradueshsja, you will not be sated with the precious
Oceanic gifts and precious drinks. Opposite to restaurant
"Mirador" which jet brothers-owners have presented at parting everyone
Russian on an orchid in a box also attracted waves of hands: "Come back!",
The bay, each fifteen minutes which crosses tramvajchik with
Tourists in national reserve Donjana.
Ecologists round the clock keep watch trackings: three times a day do
Control gaugings of water, sand on a beach, air. To us this vigil in a reproach:
Any roadside of the Russian motorway is infected by heavy metals, water from
The crane - bleaching powder. But that for us, alas, a habitual dirt, for
chistjuli-Sanlukara talo accident: as an unexpected stain on
To snow-white shirtfront of the grandee.
There is a hypothesis, that Columbus - the strange person who is not speaking
In Spanish, has descended from mountains to the sea at will Divine: to rescue the European
Civilisation for hunger, having laid to a way to a potato of the American continent.
In Sanlukare in it you believe: here you feel near to angels. Ocean,
When I have approached to it, have thrown out to feet a porous stone - two hemispheres,
Furrowed with brain crinkles. In each cathedral met on a way,
The miracles, sacred curing hallows, masterpieces of art and crafts.
Churches not to consider: in them fancifully incorporate, as here speak
About merge of three mentalities historically replacing each other, "the Roman
Feet, the Arabian trunks and Christian heads ". Devotion in the spirit of
andaluztsev, for them it is norm of a life. Services go, bells call, sacred
Run, fonts accept newborns. Kolumbova the tomb is in three
Cathedrals. Where Columbus - it is precisely not known.
WHITE ranks of long-legged wind-driven generators-power stations near to the big-bellied
Old windmills - as new Don Kihoty accompanied by correct
Sancho. A wind catch so dexterously, that energy more than has enough. A part
Wind-driven generators on a trick.
In ANDALUZII from times of the Arabian sovereignty remained useful
The hygienic tradition - to bleach walls izvestju, that rescued before
From a plague ruthlessly mowing heads iberijtsev, and now creates style.
White cities and settlements, palm trees, gardens, white sand of infinite beaches,
Shone blueness of ocean, pink shrimps, pink marble of the areas,
Green carpets of golf courses and for cultivation korridnyh bulls,
Solomenno-gold white wines, blue flags of the European community -
Distinctive sign on ecological cleanliness of local resorts, red, white
And pink carnations in hairdresses, dark blue majolicas posudnyh numbers - so
This style is embodied in a daily life. Elegantly, it is a little igrushechno and
At the same time it is fundamental.
LOCAL currency - gardens. Our guide Alina Olano, Russian with Spanish
Citizenship, the head kadisskogo branches of the leading national
Tour agencies "Vjahis Arturos", has told: Spain has gone through some years
Droughts, that for Iberian peninsula is characteristic, and then some years
Rains, that less usually. In Seville happens to fifty degrees in the summer
Heats, it not Sahara, but almost... The Province Cadiz at the sea, to it is easier. However
And here rescue from the sun - a garden. In each house - an internal court yard with
Greens. The main miracle of royal palace Alkasar in Seville - magnificent
Park labyrinths. In a cathedral from a Muslim mosque, on
Which place he has grown, the orange garden is saved. In Sanlukare, in a garden
Dukes Orleansky, a subject of special pride - drakonovy the trees, everyone
From which it is grown up hundred years. The hotels having a garden, - are always more expensive
The other. But tour agency "Fires of Moscow" which the first in Russia begins
To master a new resort, considers, that on it to save it is impossible.
parador - system of the state participation in tourism. An essence in
The volume, that the state reserves a part of hotels. Criterion of a choice -
Exclusive on "ispanskost": or it is a historical complex, or
Exclusive landscape, or the best place of coast. Up-to-date
Hotel "Victoria" in Cadiz: its one party on a beach, where any new
Building is forbidden, therefore competitors basically will not be, the second -
In city centre where too now do not build.
But supersmart hotel "п п?п?п я я п я п п?" in the former female monastery
Sacred Migelja in the Ale-puerto-de-santa-marija, with operating royal
Apartments, nevertheless - private.
And a network of superclass two-stars hotels in restavrirovannyh
Palaces on a tourist route "White settlements of Cadiz" - commercial
The social project: the private concern "Tugasa", having won competition, has acquired the right
On rent of these palaces also has developed tourist business, that, in opinion
Department of social problems of a province, except taxes in the budget gives
Job to local residents and a push to development of a local infrastructure.
UNCONTROLLABILITY of the Spanish temperament is overcome by education,
In which basis dressura (school). Flamenko - church chanting accompanied
Bridled Gipsy plastics. To learn girls begin with infancy,
Train in demonstration performances. The five years' prima donna holds
Back so, that muscles become veins. Here still there is no passion - one
Diligence. But a pose, spirit, invocatory vskriki!
Bullfight - the bridled flame of aggression. Bulls grow up as wild
Animals, without meetings with the person. Centuries the perfected technology. Accustoming to
To run, settle bull-calves for 50 kilometres from a watering place. As grow up
The toreador: in readiness for death. Selection is conducted by a sort: from generation in
Generation, at genetic level.
Riding on the Arabian racers. The bridled passion of bragging.
The horseman is motionless: the horse under it dances. Masterly high jumps,
Synchronous turns, pretentious diligent gait - ballet of horses.
Frenzy of spectators and ceremonious bow of the jockey removing for an instant kanote.
Cadiz, especially in depth, is a little mentioned mass tourism: here
Usually Spaniards, then Germans had a rest have arranged elite golf clubs.
Two times in a year in Jerez de la Frontera where there is a line of the automobile
Races "п?п?я п я п п -1", a chaos: except motorists gather then
On the World championship on the same line motorcyclists and their fans.
Have chosen coast admirers of surfing and yacht change. On beaches
Sanlukara in August - horse run. Since April on all cities and settlements
Serially - folklore fairs.
And still here, as to us spoke, - "virgin Spain", not
Spoilt by easy extraction of tip. Beggars we saw, including
Arkhangelsk, grown with a beard completely the vagabond. But there were no beggars.
Openness, friendliness, provincial prostovatost, readiness
Disinterestedly to help. Not knowing language, we called a taxi as here it is accepted,
From the payphone, sufficing for a sleeve of any passer-by: two gesture, pair of smiles, and
The native on fingers already shows number of the car which will drive through
To steam of minutes. Very similar in Russian in our dialogue with foreigners.
You feel quite in a familiar way.
TOBACCO factories in Spain in the last century the same, that banks in
Russia today: the most beautiful marble buildings in the centre; most
Prestigious and highly paid places of job; the most beautiful girls in
Employees. That is why Carmen at Prospera Merimee "the girl from the tobacco
Factories ": the most enviable bride, behind it really went hunting,
Competed the toreador (our way - the show actor) and the bodyguard.
The difference, however, too is. At tobacco factories of the girl worked
The bared. In our banks - it is direct on the contrary: than more than dresses and than
More expensively, the more convincingly.
Province CASINO - in fifteen kilometres from Cadiz: Spanish is that
The law preserving the passionate nation from superfluous temptations. Very good
The restaurant too distracting, but also involving clients. A concert hall.
Art collection: after each exhibition the author gives one job
Casino. A cinema hall where on displays filmofonda gather as in club,
Adorers of a cinema. Symbolics - a green tape with the white socket
Monograms: on cards, on vests, packages and smart
Straw hats. In a word, a casino in Spain - more than a casino,
It is a regional Palace of culture.
SILVIJA - the most beautiful woman of port of sacred Maria where it was equipped
In a campaign well-known kolumbova caravel "Santa-Marija". She has met us
At fair where was the manager. Has embraced, has kissed,
It was photographed with delegation for the local newspaper, has said
Salutatory toast. Has sat, has got from a secret pocket of the third skirt
Cellular telephone, about something has disposed. Has then given interview "Russian
To the newspaper ".
To it 36 years, married, are the son. Since 18 years - in the politician. Has ended
Public organisation faculty (our analogue - faculty social
Jobs). Fair, for example, - its child: the holiday goes week, and participate
In him all 76 thousand inhabitants Puerto-de-Santa-Marija. Silvija - the minister
Cultures of the city. The post elective, it struggles for it with others
Candidates. Job, as well as at us on such posts, 24 hours a day. As
The employee of the mayoralty receives the salary: has told "normally", in recalculation is
One and a half thousand dollars. For comparison: the prices are actually equal in shops
To ours. On a dress and in a crest of the minister of culture - precious valensijskie
Laces which are accessible to it, and to tourists - it is far not all.
"The economic Spanish miracle" about which volumes are used up, speaks
Many reasons, but as analysts underline, to no small degree -
Liberation of the Spanish woman. The emancipation has come so far, that
Spain became celibate and "the country of lonely men". Women prefer
Not to marry, not to give birth to children. However Silvija - a perfect exception
In it, though in the rest - a product of their reorganisation - of "miracle".
LAST photo for edification. This impressing structure at
Cathedral near the well-known wine vaults of the Sherry - not an architecture monument
Or histories. It is a public toilet. With a problem to be entered in the surrounding
Environment. When we will live, My God? When we will start to go on street sidewalks,
How on a parquet? After all Spain once because of a dirt from a plague died out...
Photo of the author.
Lyudmila SEMIN.
//* an information Source: the Russian newspaper, 29.05.98
//* Reg. Nom. - 1080500212.52-------------------------------------------
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