On the mother.
On the mother.
In vacation time just right to sweep across Volga -
From top to down: from river sources through Rzhev and Tver to Bottom. On
To one of sleeves mezhdurechja Oka and the Top Volga, area,
Before others in Russia occupied by our ancestors.
Sources.
Volga, as is known from a school school desk, originates in
Dense forests of Valdai, but it is not absolutely correct. It becomes
Actually the river only passing a train of four lakes, following
At last from last of them - by name of Volgo. As a matter of fact,
Here the river also begins.
The lake is propped up so-called bejshlotom, small
The dam built, apparently, still during Petrovsky times.
The dam allows to save for a spring and summer considerable
Quantity of water and out of need to dump it, filling the river.
When in dry summer a dam open in August, lake
Promptly meleet and then from under water the long are shown
Sandy shallows and plaits that gives to a landscape a kind definitely
Baltic - the blessing on coast and there here again there are pine
Groves (however, in bad weather - and it here mainly
It is that - the lake it gets shape the gloomiest,
If not to tell ominous, and involuntarily seems - whether here
There is no time the hailstones Kitezh) have sunk.
The sense of adjustment of a drain is clear, and this feature
Upper courses of Volga there is no time witty monks used
Settling down kilometres in six below a dam
Selizharovsky monastery. From the monastery ashore remains
Some brown stones, however on a river bed, before most
Dam opening, the stone niches reminding are well visible
Square baths. In them fish whom got accumulated
From the river without special efforts enterprising inoki.
As the Top Volga since times of construction of the channel of a name
Moscow fed with water capital, so, and Kremlin it
Inhabitants, the last, even in days of the most zealous
Industrialisation, liking themselves, did not construct here any
Manufactures: till now cancers, and to the recent here are found
Time in pure air may-bugs early June buzzed.
Places here fish, mushroom, berry, though local muzhiks and
Will tell to you, that supposedly fishes, mushrooms and berries are not present more. It is -
Ritual so they most likely spoke and in a century before last
-- Not to frighten off.
However, radical muzhiks here almost does not remain, and in
There is no time blossoming coastal villages have survived on two-three
Old women. To me said, that else ambassador of war on the right coast
Villages Volgo went almost continuous train, but now and
brevnyshka from the majority of them not to find in a dense osier-bed.
Have disappeared old zimniki and roads, have grown glades, have fallen
Bridges also have left in bogs there is no time firmly harmonious corduroy roads;
Schools and shops were closed, about churches and to speak there is nothing, and
Gipsies from the only thing here settlement Selishchi and live with
Gorbachev's times underground trade in cheap vodka - in "knot"
(The culture of moonshining has disappeared along with skills
bortnichestva, cultivation and zasola cucumbers, cultivation
jablonevyh gardens). Well-known zavolzhskie woods, in olden time
Colonized at first pustynnikami-monks, and after
Them country ljudom, again have turned to the impassable
Thickets in which even mushrooms do not grow. But have again appeared
The wolf flights, bears, even lynxes, and in a considerable quantity
The wild boars occasionally reaching and before plantings a potato, not
Fenced strongly enough slow owners.
To run wild to definitively these places do not allow only
Numerous summer tourists-fishers and the townspeople who were buying up
Here rural houses, and now when became probably legally
To get what-any zemlitsej, building and new, and
Survived local persistently count these modest new settlers new
burzhujami. Peasants are right: these summer residents will not be anew
To root out woods under arable lands and not begin to pave road...
I speak so in detail about local odichanii because we
We move from above, and in any measure of an upper course set the fashion also to all
The bottom life. By the way, we will pay once again attention to that strange
The fact, that great Russian river begins with a dam,
Erected there is no time under German drawings.
The first city.
After bejshlota Volga, remaining concerning small
Rivulet, it is twisted to itself still kilometres hundred in bushy coast,
And cities on it are not present. Not considering poganenkogo settlement
Selizharovo, standing on merge of Volga and the Selizharovsky Reach,
The unique small river following from Seliger, and called
City only due to a misunderstanding. The old city first from above on
To Volga - Rzhev put there where the river comes up from woods
Also spreads on a wide channel.
As well as almost in all small Volga small towns,
Unique constructions as which it is possible to consider as those,
There were that has been erected still by merchant class: private residences,
Bridges, stone barns and warehouses, strong landing stages, churches. In
Rzhev all it too has come to desolation that is not strange if
To consider, that warehouses were used as shop, warehouses under garages,
Churches as warehouses, private residences under municipal apartments, and in
Force of validity of a pre-revolutionary bricklaying all it
To anybody never came to mind to repair.
The unique construction really constructed forever
In a city it is possible to consider a sculpture of late Soviet times on
The central area before the former district committee - three standing kolom
The idol-Red Army man, designated local ljudom neupotrebimym
In the press a word-combination. We will notice in passing, that same
The sculptural group will meet us and in the end of travel, in
Bottom, with that only difference, that there all three somehow strange
Were bent, but in their shapes not which signs have appeared
And even antropomorfnosti, - it is possible for social identification
To risk and assume, what is it the worker, the peasant and
The Soviet intellectual, judging by some izmozhdennosti and
The greatest sogbennosti the last. So, perhaps, from
One this mark to another we also should be alloyed...
Provincial Rzhev leaves impression of a sluggishness and
Any zatoptannosti. Not only that time here does not move,
But the space, as in the bewitched place has stopped also.
Here all as though slightly head over heels: you ask a half a kilogramme
Sugar - to you will offer a bag; ask fishes - to you will bring
Voblas on eight one rubles for a dead piece, and it, we will notice, on
To Volga, in Moscow the such goes give the god on two roubles, to that in
City where money slowly leaves a turn; here you not
Will find in the market at torgovok-zelenshchits a fennel bunch (perhaps,
Demand is not present, to whom it is necessary - grow up on the kitchen garden, and can
To be, fennel here do not eat), but to you will give tomatoes,
Brought from the solar south, though near Moscow such with might and main
Shine through polyethylene red sides. The market in general is thin and
It is spat, as well as all city, but in all its width flaunts
The inscription painted by Cyrillics "sekond a hand", and in this
To shop - I do not joke - for three roubles you can get
One it is a lot of latanuju the Chinese jacket, and for an one ruble - pieces
Three shtopanyh raznorazmernyh bras (if on barter,
For one vjalenogo malka these subjects it is possible to exchange, it is necessary
To believe, two ten).
That you were definitively convinced, that somewhat
Be on Central Russian farm near Dikanki, here to you
Something from the local chronicle scrupulously conducted by the local
The newspaper "Byl new Rzhev".
On Saturday the next youth disco has taken place;
It was tightened to three o'clock in the morning, but, according to militia,
Large fights has not occurred; militiamen say, the truth, that
Third of participants were very drunk; "and after all how much still
Have disappeared in a twilight of night ", the anonymous correspondent informs (and
As mystery blows from this explanatory). In the street Gavrjushina at
Pensioner K the goat has been stolen from a shed; malefactors
To detain it was not possible, but a head of a goat gr-n K has found out at in the morning
Porch of own house (and you understand, that such tricks
In the spirit of what evil spirit).
And here examples it is even more wonderful. In the street Northern the house has flared
32-year-old rzhevitjanki, "known for the asotsialnym and
Immoral way of life "(that is local Solohi); during the moment
Fire "the woman was dead-drunk, but the house has suffered not
Strongly, only internal furnish of walls "(here again has scorched
Explanatories are not so necessary, if in the "flaring" house at mertvetski
To the sleeping mistress only one wall-paper) has scorched. At last, 62-year-old
The pensioner has made on the Leningrad highway "theft of the fallen support
Electric mains "(but it, however, from area of Russian
Bylinas about athletes).
The first passing capital.
On water from district Rzhev in the provincial beauty Tver you
Will not get in any way - unless the course, on a kayak or on
Plane. Regular passenger navigation begins now
In Tver, whence you can float downwards though to most
The Girkansky sea. Here too feature: to float to you it is necessary
By the steam-ships which have saved quite relic on our times
Names: we will tell, name Ordzhonikidze or Frunze, or even Jury
Antropov. It speaks completely not political
Conservatism rechnikov, and as it has appeared, extreme
Dearness of renaming of courts - this procedure is connected with
Changes in the international registers and lines knows what else
Difficulties. So to steamships as if on them it is imposed
Paternoster, it is necessary to live a century only under native names.
Tver is already the real Big city, capital
The huge province which have absorbed and all upper courses, - a city with
Stone quays and wide bridges, squares and palaces,
Coastal city garden, favourite place of a promenade
Provincial pure public with Pushkin still times, and even
Medieval quarter which now with might and main dig out. And
You easily will guess the address of excavation - certainly, street
The Soviet. Activity of archeologists is not so strange: Tver hardly
More youngly Carthago, it is put in pawn eight centuries ago and there was no time
Capital of the Great princedom, has not fallen yet - not without
Treachery of local boyars - under the impact of the Moscow princes.
From other sights prazdnoshatajushchemusja
Will be evident - come, the truth, in full desolation
In view of descended almost on there is no navigation - hot Stalin
Architecture a building of river port; someone will please already
Cash dispenses habitual to everyone Russian European, and it
Feels after Rzhev somewhat in
Relative safety; others will be calmed by set of the drinkable
Points with the well-known black-light local beer "Athanasius" and
In many tens grades of vodka, among which place of honour
Tincture "Tver" occupies; the aesthete will be carried away by a show
Sitting directly on asphalt of the central street of tramps
gorkovsko-repinskogo colour, in perfect mhatovskih
Old clothes, with the bearded faces executed almost sokratovskoj
Consciousness; they do not ask a handout but if will submit, not
Without advantage will accept from you a few small change on
Soul and body maintenance. And if to add, that in a city is
Some theatres, hippodrome, leave one and a half ten newspapers and
Three local television channels agree operate:
Happen that - and this nice city will appear quite tolerable
Place for not too long link.
prolistav a local press, you learn, that tverchan excite
All same national problems: catastrophic growth
Narcotisms and almost so impressive falling of birth rate,
And also real threat of disconnect of gas on the future
Cold season. As it is found out, the Tver youth
Tests daily psychological stress, especially if
To it, youth, for 30: seventy percent of townspeople of it
Perspective age look in the future with the strongest
Fear. It and is clear: only for last year the real
Monetary incomes tverchan have fallen already to 9 %, and below all
Possible living wage drag existence of 2 %
The population - that is, say, one of graduates of everyone
School class, - and, maybe, in their number those get also
The barge hauliers whom you have just asked to drink for yours
Health.
In these conditions, not waiting general revolt in Russian, about
Which approach with habitual eschatological enthusiasm
In eager rivalry the capital press, the local young warns
The generation already masters elements of social struggle. So, have appeared
The whole commands - are not present, not timurovtsev, but, so to say,
kvakintsev, - shooting stones and steel balls from
Slingshots from in advance chosen positions passing by a foreign car.
As it also happens in any revolution, all has begun,
Say, from especially special case: a certain owner
"Mercedes", hurrying up on the broken local streets, has poured
zazevavshujusja prohozhuju from feet to a head excellent the Tver
Dirt. The woman, simple truzhenitsa, alone brought up
The son, was upset to tears. Here then twelve years it
The son also has moved in che gevary, and has there and then acquired the command
Adherents. The message it, it is necessary to think, will please
Capital irreconcilable opposition.
Intermediate destinies.
Uglich, Yaroslavl, Kostroma, Reach - cult places
Creative intelligency, anyway on an extent
Last one and a half hundreds years. "To float across Volga" is always
Also meant to direct here. Tone have set
Brothers-academicians G and N.Chernetsovy, gone to sketch
The Volga kinds already in 1838, and without any academic
Intentions and conducted by exclusively poetic inspiration.
Then from Moscow at first reached Rybinsk, and there
Were started up by swimming. Today, when pervoprestolnaja for a long time
Became "port of five seas", in steam-ships are loaded directly on
The Leningrad highway and, passing Stalin sluices (test in any way
Not for patients klaustrofobiej) and channels, dolblennye there is no time
Mattocks of thousand ivanov denisovichej, leave to Volga in area
Dubna.
Invariable places of pilgrimage not so also are diverse.
In Uglich, say, it is necessary to take a look by all means at a bell in
Local kremle, announced there is no time about ubienii a tsarevitch
Dimitrija. We will note clearly pagan sense of it
Exhibiting: to you show not simply a bell of times of Ivan
Grozny, but announced about ubienii, than appeal to
To the lower class of our consciousness in which it is primitive are unsteady
Relationships of cause and effect.
In Yaroslavl theatre-goers direct "on pleshku" - so
The local youth names the area before volkovskim
Drama theatre, by tradition considered as the first in
Russia if to reject, of course, court and serf, and
Fans of monuments of architecture rush to behold set
By miracle of the masterpieces which have survived for the previous vague years
Old Russian architecture.
In Kostroma, on a legend based sitting on a game opposite
Mossoveta prince Jury Dolgorukim, many there and then after the arrival
Go to Joint-Stock Company "Big linen manufactory". Is
The superstitious opinion, that here, in Joint-Stock Company, on cheap stuff is possible
To get special, only here made "black"
Cloth; I do not know, "black", should be, has come to an end, me
Only serovato-white linen cloth, which I has got and
Has brought to the wife. By the way, just before us we here has visited
The freakish president also has left the autograph on the slogan, which
Has for this purpose enjoined to remove whence from an upper part, something of type
"To our manufactory - attention of the government"; Yeltsin has traced
-- "There will be a Decree", understand as you know. By the way, further the first
The person of our state have entailed the same route, that
potrusim and we, - to contemplate the well-known Ipatevsky monastery with
Frescos of Force of Savin, based, by the way, Tatar murzoju
CHetom, Boris Godunov's ancestor; in addition,
Here in 1613 it has been declared to young Michael Romanov, that
It is chosen zemskim by a cathedral on a kingdom, so a place it for
The president twice interesting.
Reach - last and most sweet point of this route.
Small town of anything to itself, with cosy landing stage, houses edak in five hundred,
Something like Volga Tarusy. Since Levitan's times and it
Companions, wives of police doctor Kuvshinnikova (this adultery,
Glorified A.P.Chekhov, apparently, there is there is a corner
The stone of local mythology), a place is reputed most
Romantic on all route, here again it is accepted, keeping for
Hands to be thrilled over "eternal rest" and who would teach, what is it
The word-combination in this case means. Now in the Reach is
Even the landscape Museum as which basis the collection of that has served
Levitan, and the small town is occupied by figures of theatre,
Occupying at the same time the former manor of Ostrovsky ShChelykovo,
Being nearby, cinematographers and artists,
Which during times when still was fashionable to buy the cheap
Things, persistently got falling rural log huts in
Small town vicinities.
Palomnichat it is accepted collectively with all accompanying
To joint residing taken together though several
Art Russian intellectuals excesses. Somehow:
Citing and vozlijanijami, promiscuity, passionate
Sermons, obscene jokes, collective meditations about
Destinies of fatherland and unexpected impulses of atheists to run on
To smoky dew in a coastal temple to the night-bird; it is known even
The case which has occurred somewhere in vicinities of the hasty
Weddings in one very peeled temple of two
Improvised enamoured, each of which had a seat on
Steamship board in Northern port, being married, - not
Church, but nevertheless registered in a registry office...
To everyone is free to choose and like, however, own
Secret places on the earth. I know the people sincerely considering
New York the most beautiful city in the world; it is pleasant to another
Pea - on health. Honouring of the Volga windy
Open spaces a wreath of creation and light miracle in general is the general
Itself, and as any platitude, has under itself known
The bases. It is necessary to notice only, that the charm of these is enough
Monotonous kilometres on hundreds, with specifically amateurish
By Russian nature on coast, places it is slightly poisoned the special
Russian tone hardly hysterical melancholy and languor.
It seems, it was felt well by Russian
Classics-fiction writers: to recollect though destiny of Larissa Ogudalovoj,
Shot in Kostroma, whether that, only for love to the night
To driving on a river smooth surface with the old friend; or all
Drunk daring and any Fomy Gordeyev's game. And
The well-known question "whose groan is distributed?" It is executed, as
It is represented, metaphysical sense: it is groan not any
There the river workers typed by a merchant from fluent convicts, and
The sounds which have been involuntarily pulled out from depths of the collective
Unconscious local inhabitants. And it is valid - "leave
To Volga "somewhere in area Kaljazina with its ridiculously sticking out
From water a belltower so touching tourists, listen - and,
It seems, there and then this groan and you will hear, though any barge hauliers
Here is not found any more. It pines a restless soul of the people,
Not able to live without at first not to construct
Something such openwork, and there to knock itself a fist on a breast
And to flood all okrest to the devil's grandmother of a clay reflected light
Heavy Volga water.
Below.
When we have sailed back to Moscow, in just
The Nizhni Novgorod left by us there was a wonderful sign:
A certain major has left on the area on the tank and has demanded to pay
To it the salary for four months, children's allowances and to give
Dry ration. While public prosecutors deliberated, whether to take it in
Tribunal for stealing of office transport, doubting, however,
Whether tanks fall under this article, the gallant major became
The national hero is not worse than Kuzma Minina. Certainly, it could
To occur and in any other place, but Bottom isstari was most
Suitable place for a feat. Here heroes always were born,
Look though at our government.
Here after all there are the most improbable things forcing
To revere all Sacred Russia. We will tell, hardly one governor
Has built here from local Pokrovka some kind of Volga Arbat,
Has placed lanterns, as it for it already to the Moscow Kremlin
Call. On the released place a little later
In public, as collected there is no time donations on arms
Armies of the prince Pozharsky, select the godfather local
Mafias. Also that you think: than there and then to crown on a kingdom
The elect will national, that drag under mikitki in
Lock-up. On these coast not so long ago boyar Nikita Mikhalkov
Arranged completely not fast universal feast for the vegetarian and
The Buddhist of American hero-lover Richard Gere, which
Night has been compelled to disappear from temptation skoromnosti without a break
On an uninhabited Volga islet and to sustain torture from the local
Mosquitoes for could not offend them in view of an interdiction its religion
To kill the live...
Yes what to speak, a place special, almost mystical, one
The slope of that costs, which within two centuries that has not slipped,
With an enviable stubbornness prop up all world. Here it will be fast and
The Sheremetyevo so it is perspicacious advised there is no time clerks
To tsar Ivan Groznomu to transfer here its capital. And that: a city
Is as though on a wedge edge mezhdurechja, at most
Connection of Volga and Oka, on the end, so to say, arrows,
Aimed towards the Tatar Kazan, as has induced, it is necessary
To think, son Vsevolozh is no time Vladimir prince Gjurgi
To put in pawn here a fortress in 1221 after a Christmas.
To arrive for day, on two to Nizhni Novgorod - all the same that
On sekundochku to run in the Hermitage or in department store Mejsi.
You will scramble unless in local kreml, you will take a look at churches and
Cathedrals; you will sweep on the only thing, apparently, across all Volga
The underground; you will have time to see from above the Arrow, and at the drama
Theatre povodish a finger on lines of the poster; you will regret, that
Has arrived not in exhibition days, and you will intercept on Pokrovka
charku in the street cafe looking absolutely by the Parisian, you will take a look
On the most beautiful volzhanok, which in a flying weather here the great
Set, absolutely capital, but all taki with that imperceptible
Aroma of provinciality for which who understands - will give
Smell any shaneli, you will be lost in day-dreams, as - chu - you hoots
The steamship, also is time to leave a hospitable city. Better and at all
Did not come.
In melancholy you look at the most beautiful hailstones leaving from you on
Hill at merge of two ancient Russian rivers, given to the world
It is so much talents. It is that case, when not only what to leave
It would not be desirable, but it is dreamt to remain voluntary. So and
Has jumped, apparently, in a white breaker foaming behind a stern.
Here just right to drink still a wine-glass. Seagulls, naturally, shout with
Anguish, ogolodali, poor, in view of the lowered number
Natatorial tourists. Dark blue a damp sail over Volga a cloud
Passed. Inconsolable, you open the Nizhniy Novgorod newspaper
"A city and townspeople". Also you learn from its pages with affection
Nostalgia, that the metropolitan Nizhniy Novgorod and Arzamas Nikolay
Has anathematized the certain American-English enterprise,
Intended to make of remote Nizhniy Novgorod hotel
"Moscow" three-stars hotel; the metropolitan knows, that speaks,
Under hotel "Moscow" long since, it appears, on a country churchyard
Nikolsky church stones of orthodox people are based; and on
"On bones to dance one they are more useless" who does not understand it,
Infidels; on the other hand, paternal the metropolitan earlier not
It was excited, when sent to hotel "Moscow" on
The same place bugs ate; but bugs were all the same
Native, domestic...
And here the chairman of local Committee of protection of monuments at
Natalia Baharev asserts the mayoralties, that "Nizhniy Novgorod kreml
In what does not concede to the Collosseo ". You again pour. Let
kreml and not stadium, and that, all the same does not concede - that
Correctly, correctly. Also you pour still. Here and to argue there is nothing,
Ours, podi also will be more senior. And such covers you
Inspiration, that, apparently, perekrestjas, would jerk a shirt on
Breasts, would slap itself on thighs and would go vprisjadku round
To unknown you of Mrs. Baharevoj under the well-known refrain
Immortal Gogol poem.
NIKOLAY KLIMONTOVICH.
The author expresses gratitude to the State centre
The modern art and personally to its head Leonid
To Bazhanov for the given possibility to make the big
Part of this travel onboard steam-ship "N.G.Slavjanov" in
Action frameworks "a present Steamship".
//* an information Source: Russian telegraph, 20.08.98
//* Reg. Nom. - 1080800184.47-------------------------------------------
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